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Notes on a Successful Oil Pump Replacement 200 91

The following notes are offered on checking out the engine lubrication system and changing out the oil pump on my 1991 240 DL (146K).

A couple of weeks ago, I posted an issue with the low oil pressure light that began coming on at hot idle after about 40 minutes on the road. A pressure check with a good shop gauge showed the following pressures with Red Line 10W-30 and a clean Mann oil filter:

Cold idle: 20 psi

Hot idle: 8 psi

Hot @ 2000 rpm: 32 psi

The Bentley manual states spec at 2000 rpm is at least 36 psi. Hmmm, not good.

Ran a can of Amsoil flush through, according to instructions. Loaded up Delo 400 15W-40 and a new Mann filter:

Literally the same readings as above resulted. Definitely not good.

[This engine was run the first 94K by the PO, and ostensibly serviced at all the right intervals by the local dealer. All parts were Volvo and the engine oil the dealer uses is Castrol. However, last year my oil pump plugged up after running some engine flush through, and the engine, viewed from the bottom with the pan removed, was covered with carbon buildup, which plugged the oil pump pick-up. A good layer of sludge was removed from the pan also(done by a shop)].

Ordered new oil pump, seals and pan gasket from RPR. $197 with 3rd day UPS shipping. RPR sells a Scan-Tech oil pump for $160; my dealer needed $280 for this part.

Eight (8) hours to remove pan and replace pump, following a combination of Don Foster's "half-blind" method posted a couple of weeks ago, and the recommended (but significantly understated) Bentley procedure for dropping the cross member. I recommend dropping the cross member, unless you are on your third engine and have memorized the location of the pump parts. Don't fool around trying to figure out what you might not need to disconnect... just disconnect the:

- sway bar brackets and end-links

- steering rack U-bolts

- small brake line brackets to the cross member and steering linkage (careful here)

- left engine mount completely

- lower suspension arm brackets from the frame

- tranny-to-engine support bracket

- bottom of right engine mount

- ball joint to lower arm bolts (I think)

- anything else that Bentley instructs you to disconnect

This will really make it easier to remove the pan, pump and reinstall the clean parts with little fear of messing up your pan gasket. None of the parts are tough to remove, but you can spend some time guessing which ones you don't have to remove.

I supported the engine at the bottom pulley, using a floor jack and a big handful of rags to prevent any marring of the pulleys.

Upon startup, the specs are, with Delo 400 15W-40, Mann filter:

Cold idle: 64 psi

Hot idle: 52 psi

Hot idle at 2000 rpm: 75 psi

The cool morning "piston slap" is MUCH diminished, as well as overall engine noise.

Had beer. Good luck....







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