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Jeff, I just put in a new kickdown cable on our 85 wagon only a few weeks ago so this is half-fresh in my mind.
> I'm about to replace the AT kickdown cable on my 1985 wagon which
> developed the bad habit of freezing solid in cold weather. I've
> bought the cable, pan gasket, screen, and screen gasket and ATF. A
> few questions:
> 1 - How long should this take? I'm reasonably experienced, it took me
> about 3 hours to replace my timing belt.
It depends on how good the access from below is and how much dripping tranny fluid you're willing to work under. This job is ideally done on a hoist so you can see what you're doing and get your hands up in at the proper angle when you're disconnecting and reconnecting the pawl end of the cable. Ramps alone may not really give you the height you need. Somewhere between 4-8 hrs start to finish would probably be reasonable for a first go.
> 2 - Is there anything I'm missing from the list above. Do I need more
> than my socket set and ramps here? Any potential snags?
-An old tarp or a mat of newspapers to catch all the drips.
-A milk jug with a wide funnel stuck in the neck is good for draining.
-Lots of shops towels.
-A good flexible light to see what you're doing. I found one of those snake lights handy.
-Extra long needle nose pliers get at the pawl end of the cable without having to drop the exhaust pipe.
-Make a wedge to hold the pawl up during cable disconnection and reconnection about 2-3" long with about a 3/8"x5/8" cross section. You use the long slot screwdriver to lift the pawl about 2/3 of the way (or pull on the cable at the throttle end) and then pop in the wedge so that the cable end plug is accessible.
-A torque wrench is a good idea for properly re-tightening the pan gasket (spec is 8 ft-lbs as I recall). As for all gaskets, tighten so as to spread it out from the middle.
-A long neck funnel for refilling.
It's basically a simple job, but it's a little tedious at the tranny end. The trickiest bit is getting the cable end out of the slot in the pawl and the new one back in. Second trickiest bit is wiggling the cable casing out of the tranny housing and pushing the new one back in (using a little grease helps). Good access and good lighting and a reasonable degree of cleanliness are the key.
> 3 - I'd like to oil the new cable before I put it in, any ideas? I've
> got MOBIL 1 grease and I thought I'd use that, but I could also use
> ATF, 1 lube, silicone spray, motor oil or anything else.
I suspect a graphite lube would be best, if anything. You don't want anything thick or that will later dry to gum and cause the cable to stick.
> 4 - my new cable has a very small metal sleeve (3-4 mm long) taped to
> it. It's a hollow cylinder with an opening along the long axis.
> What's this for? My old cable doesn't seem to have one. Does it keep
> the cable from popping out of the throttle pully somehow (like my
> current one does every so often)
That little crimp goes on the cable about 2-4mm from where it sticks out of the casing at the throttle end. You put the crimp on after you've got the cable installed and adjusted for the first time. I don't think it's horribly important except as a rough guide for future adjustment and to keep a broken cable from crawling down into the tranny.
When you pull and release the cable at the throttle end, adjust it until you hear the pawl in the tranny just hitting the seat. Then tighten the cable a bit so that you no longer hear it hitting. That's the standard adjustment spot. You can go more or less depending on whether you want to advance or retard the kickdown a little. Tighter gives a slightly peppier shift. Slack gives a slightly smoother shift.
If you haven't changed the tranny fluid in awhile then read the 740 FAQ for tips on how to flush out additional old fluid from the radiator tube.
The Haynes manual (among others) has diagrams and general procedures.
Go for it -Dave
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