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Re: Help needed replacing heater hose 700 '90

Eric, buy two new heater hoses (the OEM hose from the dealer or from www.borton.com is of superb quality). Also buy a heater water valve, since the one you have is about to break. Give serious thought to all-new hoses, since an eleven-year-old car is living on borrowed hose time.

The hose going under the manifold merely slides onto a nipple protruding out about one inch from the bottom of the manifold. The hose clamp is the problem. Get a strong lamp to shine down on the area so you can see what you are doing. Using a long screwdriver, loosen the clamp from above (through the intake manifold runners). If you can't get access, try prying the clamp around until the screw is straight up and accessible. Or use a 1/4 inch socket and a universal joint. Once you've loosened this, pull the hose off: with the split, it should come right off. If not, try rotating it first before pulling. Remove the other ends from the firewall pipes by loosening the clamps and then carefully slicing the hose with a utility knife (don't cut the pipes!) and then peeling it off. Pulling it won't work: it will be welded onto the pipes. Clean off the pipes with a potscrubber-type sponge.

Remember the hose orientation. Cut the new hose at the point of insertion for the new water valve. Mount the valve in the hose correctly, tighten the hose clamps, mount a loose clamp on the manifold end, then moisten the inside end of the hose going into the manifold with soap or spit. Push it onto the fitting so it seats at the end. It will be a pain, but can be done with dry hands and hose. Then rotate the clamp around and tighten it: another pain, but it can be done.

The water valve, BTW, has a vacuum fitting and hose going into it: don't damage this. You may find that you have to change the end fitting or re-use the fitting off the old valve.






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