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Hi all,
Thanks for the great responses.
Though I will no doubt rebuild the fuse block in the future, I like to know specifically where the disease lies before treatment, so rather than using a shotgun approach, I started trouble shooting by measuring voltage across the batt while running 11.7-12.4. Voltage would increase with revs however to 13.5. Keeping it simple to start with and using some of the wisdom of my fellow brickboarders, I looked to the 25 amp fuse (number one) as it carries all of the power hungry devices that my winter driving has required when my charging woes began. The little and the connection looked "funky". Someone had, lacking the proper fuse, inserted a little glass style fuse in the spot. It didn't fit well, and looked like it was hanging in the socket. Hmm...suspicious? I bought some standard length euro-style fuses in 25 amp and implemented the modification proposed by Jim Hekker recently on brickboard (bending the tab to accomidate the larger fuse). Remeasured voltage running at 13.2v at idle,with headlights (halogen), turn signals, high blower and wipers running simultaneously. Same load with revs 14.4v.
I think that's a fix, but I say "think" because the amp light glows a little and flickers at idle even with these positive voltage readings...is that OK?
By the way. I improved on the Hekker modification by taking an 1/8" drill and making a hole in the bent over tab to accomodate the the tip of the euro fuse so it wouldn't be tempted to slip out. Seems to be snug.
I suspect the blower motor might be drawing too many amps, but that problem will rear it's ugly head if that is the case...seems ok for now.
My lack of jump-starting (I hope) will tell the tale. I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again,
Mark (phred) Fred
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