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It sounds like the same problem I am having. First, don't use starting fluid, just squirt some regular gasoline in the intake manifold. Starting fluid is more explosive than you need and it is harder on the engine than gasoline.
Now to the problem. This year engine (1989-1993) has an ECT sensor that is probably the cause of your problem. The following information was copied from the Brickboard 700/900 FAQ Sensor section:
"Diagnosing ECT Failures. [Response: Don Foster, adapted to 700/900 series by Editor] Your engine has two temp sensors -- one for the gauge (it's mounted in the head about under intake header #2, and one for the FI (it's mounted in the head about under intake header #3). The latter is the ECT sensor.
The sensor is an NTC thermistor -- negative temperature coefficient. As the temp drops, the resistance rises, and as the temperature rises, the temperature drops. Thus, if you have a broken wire, defective sensor, or bad connection (I've seen it happen) the resistance measured by the ecu will be very high or infinite. The ECU interprets this as minus a zillion degrees and pours in the gas.
The car I saw filled the oil with gas and certainly wouldn't run. And the problem was only a displaced spade lug in the plastic connector housing.
According to Chilton's (you may choose to disregard this):
"The coolant temperature signal to the control unit has a great influence on the computed injection period... For example, when the engine is being started and is cold, the amount of injected fuel must be relatively large.
"If the control unit receives a signal higher than 302F (150C) or lower than -40F (-40C), it will interpret the signal as a fault...the control unit will assume a substitute value corresponding to 32F (0C) on starting and 68F (20C) when the engine has started.
"With the control unit connected, connect a voltmeter across LH ECU terminals 13 and 5 (ground), turn the ignition switch ON.
At 68F (20C) the voltage should be 2.0 +/-.5v volts.
At 104F(40C) the voltage should be 1.2 +/- .3volts
At 176F (80C) the voltage should be .5 +/- .2volts.
The resistance values between pins 13 and 5 or between pins on the sensor are (by eye from the chart):
32F (0C)-- about 6000 ohms within a range of +/- 10%
68F(20C) -- about 2300 ohms "
104F(40C) -- about 1300 ohms "
140F(60C) -- about 600 ohms "
176F(80C) -- about 300 ohms "
212F -- about 190 ohms "
[Response 2: Steve Ringlee] ECT resistance "cold" should be around 6k ohms at 32 degrees F (0 deg C), 2300 at 68 degrees F (20 C), and 200 at 212 F (100 C). However, try checking your ECT wiring: Between pins 13 and 5 at the LH ECU (with sensor DISconnected) resistance should be infinite. Voltage with the ignition ON and sensor connected, measured between1pins 13 and 5, should be:
0 C=around 3 volts +/-.5v
20C=around 2 volts +/- .5v
100C=around .3 volt +/- .1v
If these aren't correct, check the connections in the ECT wiring harness. Check engine ground connections at the intake manifold. If the voltage is zero, your ECU is at fault."
Bob
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