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Tommy makes a good point. Don't bother hauling the block out of the car, or the trans from the car. Move the block forward in the car, rest it on the crossmember, and work the seal from there. Strap it forward so it doesnt' slide back into position when you don't want it to.
A few tips for rear main replacement:
Order a rear seal flange gasket and replace the seal like that if at all possible. The rear seal is MUCH easier to replace with the flange removed, and then to replace the whole thing as one piece. But you need that gasket, so don't forget it. It's like $2.50.
Also if you are motivated, pull out the torque converter and replace the input shaft seal. It's a metal-banded seal that is easy to get out and easy to install without banging it up too much. If you do it, be very cautious reinstalling the torque converter and make sure it's seated all the way in on the input shaft. These things go without saying, but it's easy to slip past one or two things, and find out the hard way.
The TC bolts are a pain in the butt, so just keep plugging away at it and you'll get them. I use a 3/8" swivel head breaker bar with a six point socket (17mm if I recall), and it fits quite well. You can lock the ring gear while you pop off the bolts for convenience.
If the trans bushing needs replacement, you might just want to yank the thing anyway. Just be careful--it's HEAVY. But very easy to do all the aforementioned work on the floor.
Good luck and have fun. Once you finish with that, you won't have to worry about seals for a long time--maybe ever.
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chris herbst, five volvos.
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