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danio -
You got some good posts, especially about bench bleeding the new MC. Unless you are prepared to go ahead with a system bleed or flush, as I am usually not, there is a way to do the job without a system bleed.
Do the job such that the moving of the lines from old MC to new can be done real quick. As I recall, I loosen slightly the two lines and remove the mounting nuts from the old MC, it'll stay there w/o nuts removed.
Then hold the new MC nearby and trade off the lines PDQ. (PFQ if you are of the younger generation.) Finish the job and clean thoroughly. Remember that brake fluid eats paint.
Then either do a front pad replacement (as I do), or go to either front wheel and push the pads back away from the rotor as if you were going to do a replacement. This forces fluid back into the MC, enough to get out the small amount that got in during the MC replacement. Remember to pump up before driving off, unless you need a charge of adrenaline.
If that won't work for you, like if you haven't the time, try to do the MC job when the car can sit overnight afterwards. The air bubbles will be in the vertical lines and will likely float up into the MC and be gone by morning.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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