The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Fuel System Problems Ever Continuous 700 1992

Sorry to say, you're applying very bad logic to some bad advice.

I found your earlier post, and the nutcase that got you on that air bubble idea is way off base. There are 1000s of fuel filters changed every day. While it's right to say that the new filter is full of air, the liquid moved by the pump will quickly push the whole pocket up to the engine and, whatever doesn't get bled through the injectors will wind up getting sent back to the tank. But let's say, for argument's sake, the this ridiculous theory has some merit. Now we're saying there's an air pocket in the filter and all the liquid from the main pump is bypassing it. So what! That would still mean the engine is getting solid fuel delivery. I wonder if that Venutian has some similar ideas about what happens when you screw on a new oil filter.

Now back to earth...

Saying that the AMM is good because you can see the wire is like saying a light bulb is good because the glass isn't broken. It's just not what goes bad in them. The only reliable voltage reading you could take would be based on knowing the temperature corrected air flow (a/k/a air mass) at the moment you are taking the reading. My guess is still that you have the WRONG amount of air flowing through the AMM. Static voltage measurements are only good for no-start conditions.

If you said your car was 1 year old and had 7K on it, then you could claim "not old", but at 10 yrs and 70K it has plenty of things getting tired. Those hoses are way up near the top of the list.

Unless you jacked the car up to change the filter and never opened the hood, then you probably did some other work at the same time. No matter how innocent it might have seemed, either pushing one of those intake hose out of your way or disconnecting one could be the root cause of your problem. They get oil soaked from the inside and often fail right under the band clamp, and often on the bottom side. It is also easy to miss getting the hose on all the way and then the clamp misses the hose. The lack of boost practically clinches it.

Get on the road during the daylight and carefully watch behind you in the mirror (even better with some following your car from behind to look for you). Accelerate moderately hard and look for some black smoke. If you see some, double, triple or quadruple check those intake hoses until you find the one that wasn't on correctly or has a tear.






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.