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"The pedal is hard with the engine off".
That's a good sign. A system with air in it, or a pressure leak such as a bulging or blown line, bad caliper seals (you'd see the leak sooner or later), or a bad master, won
't display that symptom. An air-loaded brake system, even only one circuit, will have a soggy pedal, point blank. If one caliper has air, the car will pull a little bit, sometimes heavily.
I am thinking, adjust the length of the master cylinder actuator rod OUT several turns. There was a thread on this in the 700 forum, I believe.
For some reason, I've noticed that aftermarket master cylinders (no brand, rhyme, or reason) have caused similar problems on 700 series cars that I've seen. I have no explanation other than that the tolerances/build specs for the "Rebuilt" masters are different enough to cause problems when installed. The booster/actuator rod is adjustable for exactly that purpose--to enable you to get more travel. By adjusting the rod so it's longer, you will get a higher pedal. That adjustment exists for a reason and it might be well worth the try. Adjustment is a few minutes of your time, and no hydraulic work whatsoever.
If the thing just sags out constantly, there might be a massive air leak in the booster. But something tells me that isn't the issue; you'd likely have a noticeable idle drop when you hit the brakes hard. Even perhaps a stall.
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chris herbst, five volvos.
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