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I think one part number (the 127...) is a thread in and the other part number is a push in switch, but I am not sure. The temp ratings are the same. Volvo and most car makers using electric fans put the switch on the cold side of the radiator so that the radiator has chance to do its job first. I suppose you could just use a hotter switch on the hot side, but this does not seem to be the way its done. The concern is really that the coolant is hotter than it should be WHEN it is about to go back into the motor. That is over at the return side of the radiator. Switches that do not contact coolant work, but not as accurately or consistently. I assume you have one you have stuck through the fins. They can heatsoak from the metal or be cooled by rain or airflow. I use one as well as the stock Volvo auxiliary fan switch that is already in my radiator. The through the fins one is adjustable; I have it wired up unswitched so it can run after the engine is off. It is set to a higher temperature.
The Hayden is OK, but not as good as an OEM primary cooling fan or a more powerful aftermarket fan like some of the Flex a Lites, some Spals, some Scotts, etc. If it works in the middle of summer with the AC on in stop and go traffic, it is all you need. A nice modification is to wire the fan to come on with the AC, using a one way diode/resistor in the trigger wire to the relay so the AC doe snot come on when the fan comes on.
I think if your gauge is going past normal, the fan switch is set a bit hot. On the other hand, with the idiot coolant gauge, you can also set the fan so it comes on too often. The best thing is to have a proper engine temp gauge or use an infrared thermo sensor to use in setting the fan switch.
Philip Bradley
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