The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

cold start 140-160 1972

"Should I get 12v current at the starter output, at the thermal time switch and at the cold start valve while cranking the starter on a cold start?"

I believe yes.

"On a warm start I suspect I should get 12v at the starter output and the thermal time switch, and no current at the cold start valve. Is this a correct assumption?"

I believe yes again.

"Should there be any current (at starter output, thermal time switch or cold start valve) when the starter is not engaged (while ignition is on, or car is running)?"

I believe not.

Note: You may want to remove the cold start valve from the intake, connect the wires, and spray it into a can while cranking the (cold) engine. I once found a bad nozzle this way. (NEW valve doesn't always mean GOOD valve.)






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.