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Scott-
Here's my 2-bit's worth, you should wait for more repsonses.
>>Do you guys use wheel ramps or jack the car up?
I use wheel remps, but I have to stand on the RH ramp to reach inton the filter area.
>>Any special oil filter--should I order from IPD or will the one at my local auto supply work fine?
Brickboard recommends Mann, order from any of the on-line places. I have used Fram PH-43 for decades, and when I pull them off, they're full of oil. However, a post some months back with picture of used filter cut around showed Mann having a LOT more filter media than Fram.
>>Is the oil filter hard to get at? Do you guys grab it from above or below? Will a standard band-type oil filter wrench work? Do you fill the new filter up with oil before installing it?
The filter is easy for me, since I run with the heat shield in the garage and the pre-heat tube moved out of the way. I use a standard band-typ filter wrench. BUT first, I take a paper towel, wrap the filter and let it drop so it covers the motor mount. A 2nd towel finishes covering the mount. I take a newspaper, 8 thicknesses, and cover the outer fender a little and the strut tower a lot. Keeps the upper arms cleaner. I do not fill the filter with oil, although that sounds like a good idea. Half full, anyway.
>>Ok, and my main stupid question--is the drain plug the brutally obvious one at the bottom of the (red) oil pan? Is a crescent wrench ok for this? Do I need a new gasket on the plug? What about magnetic plugs?
Yes, that is the drain plug. NO, never use any adjustable wrench on it. Use a socket, 6 or 12 point, half-inch drive and NO breaker bar. Use a new copper crush washer, and do not over-tighten. Dunno about magnetic plugs.
>>Anything else? Well, yes. (1) when the oil filler cap is off, stow it upside down on the hood latch - you'll never forget to put it back on. DAMHIK
(2) before removing the filter, put your hand around the bottom and check the distance to the motor mount. Tight fit? Mount is failing, prepare for the mount replacement job soon.
(3) When you crank up after putting in the new oil, pull the 25-amp fuse. Give it 3 or 4 seconds of cranking, til the oil light goes out. You will allow the oil to pump up without the additional stress from combustion on the relatively dry bearings. AND, after that, start it up still on the ramps and look under for leaks.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
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