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A/C conversion questions. WAIT THERE'S MORE! 200 1983

posted by  Ursan on  Wed Jul 3 13:39 CST 2002
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last visit: Mon Apr 18 11:38 CST 2011
[RELATED]

I sure can't figure it out.

If anyone's done it, please let me know.

The valve when going all the way to cold does "click" into place. Yet it still blows very warm (about 90°f)

So I figured, "how about replacing it?"

That was all well & good except the shampooing screws that hold the valve in place face INTO the heater assembly. How am I supposed to get to those things?

Also, I could care less about the capillary on the heater valve, what would happen if I just clipped it? would it forever stay hot?

Is there a valve I can install there that is ONLY adjusted by the control lever & not the capilary as well?

Also, if there is still freon in my A/C system, would that stand to reason that there are no leaks?

If so, should I still replace ALL the o-rings from the pump to hose unions? Or could I just get away with the o-rings on the dryer & expansion valve?

Is there an in-line filter in this system? What about a variable orifice valve?

TIA (again)

Also, if anyone has done the r12 to 134 conversion on a 240 with a York pump, please email me with your tale of woah.






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