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No face vent through acceleration with ECC at 964T '91 (The one sold as 940SE in the US , 960 Chassis + 940T engine and tranny )
Noticed about a year ago that no air or very little was coming out of the "face vents" during acceleration.
It got worse and now at 65-70 miles per hour no air what so ever got out, but still heard some noise from the fan.
Logically thinking this should be a vacuum problem since the vacuum gets less during acc. and apparently also was close to zero at about 60 miles per hour.
So... tested the two check valves on top of the engine, found both leaking and very happy purchased new ones. Slight improvement but yet a leak on a white hose going through the firewall. Found drawing showing that the white one is supposed to leak... it is sucking air by the temp sensor located in the interior roof light! The black hose on the other check valve was holding steady ... until I turned the ignition on and lost the vaccuum.
So… inside panels ripped open and I tested all accessible vaccuum motors with the pump and meter and found the double acting motor (the only one with two hoses) was leaking on one side. This motor is according to the manual the foot/defrost motor (part number 9463042).
Conflicting dealers parts manuals made it hard to tell which one to order, but I decided to get the one appearing only once since I had only one double acting one.
The time estimate from a dealers manual told them approx 1 hour to change 1-3 vaccuum motors, however the did not wanted to give a fixed price for only an hours work. The guy thought that it might as well take 3-5 hours.
So I decided to change it myself, Read an article somewhere that the box can be cut open, change an "sealed" back together. Didn't attract me and if dealer had 1 hour there must be another way to get to it too.
This is how it was done:
-Turn power seats as far back as possible.
-Remove ground terminal from battery (You do have the radio code later?)
-Remove “knee” covers on both sides.
-Remove glove compartment (4 screws)
-Remove knee bolster at driver’s side (2 screws , 2 nuts)
-Remove knee bolster bracket (2 bolts)
-Remove ashtray
-Slide parking brake cover back 4-5" (6 screws)
-Remove "switch cover" right of steering wheel (disconnect switches and light)
-Remove radio, compartment under radio and the whole radio compartment ( 4 screws, wires for cig lighter + 2 panel lights )
-Lift relay assembly to right side (plastic inhex screw)
-Remove the ECC control console (4 screws)
-Remove driver’s side “side feeding” duct (round 90 degree behind radio compartment driver’s side)
-Slide of duct that feeding passenger side ("carefully with force")
-Remove duct coming from “air distribution housing” to “upper face and side vents”.
-Remove air grilles (both sides) from floor distribution box (2 #2PH screws per grille).
-Disconnect temp sensor at driver side heater housing, disconnect one connector passenger side and check for others obstructing floor distribution box.
-Remove fixing screw for floor distribution box
-Driver side floor duct was soft and tin plastic and could be "bent" enough (again "carefully with force") to get it off the floor dist. box.
-Ones driver side of floor dist. box is loose it can be pulled back and slightly right.
-Now the double acting "motor" can be accessed through a down facing opening.
-Pry washer off lever (washer will brake) unscrew the two nuts and vacuum motor comes out.
-Mount new motor and test them all with pump and meter.
-Reassemble in reverse order.
Tools good to have were:
Screwdrivers Torx T15,T20,T25, Phillips #2, Long nose pliers for the washer thing, mirror and flashlight,
1/4" Ratchet and spinner sockets: 7,8,9,10,12 mm, 6" extension, and for the nuts on the motor .. 4" flex extension bar (Steel cable type from Craftsman) together with a kind of "thumb wheel" spinner (Snap-On)
Well I'm not sure which one is faster , easier or better but I had hard time getting the motor out and back in again even if I had an opening about 4*5" to work through.
It took me 4 hours work to get it done. Most time went to find replacement lock washer and to puzzle the ducts back together (a lot harder then to get them out).
The procedure is not to recommend for people with bad backs, short nerves, or large hands.
Noticed also that this one was the easiest to change , the other two ( single action ) would require the complete air distribution box to be taken out.
Care should be taken not to brake that many of the numerous plastic clips and tabs that keeps everything fixed. (That’s where the dealers might save lots of time since the know how to remove all of the panels and covers without trial and error)
Hope this might help somebody
(The A/C / ECC is not as necessary here in Finland (EU) as it was in Maryland (US) but very capable to keep it very clear of inside moisture during our cold winters (-22 to 5F), and summer time certainly here is warm enough (80 to 90F ) to enjoy the A/C).
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