|
I have a slightly different experience to report. After trying the shims, the grease, the factory pads and rotors the squeal from the ATe rears would always return...until I tweaked the notch in the pistons.
The factory manual says 20 degrees +/- 2 and two degrees is not a lot and beyond my eyeball's abilities. It suggests the adjustment in persuit of quiet brakes. I used card stock and a protractor once, and another time the miter gauge from my table saw. 'Course you wanted to know how to turn it with the caliper in place, right? Now that's a nifty tool I could not imitate, so I was lurking to see if someone had a good idea. I won't even attempt to describe the combination of channel lock pliers and screwdriver that managed the rotation without mangling the piston; I got lucky.
Anyway net result, the car doesn't sound like a Volvo anymore, identified by the rear brake resonance. And if you have any thoughts that I elevate factory manuals to blind faith status, my torque spec for the caliper bolts is three whacks on the end of a combo wrench from a 2lb. drilling hammer. They's caliper-ated whacks.
Well, I guess you've seen a lot more of these than I have. Have you noticed a relation between the angle and the noise?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
|
