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Replacing the reversing light switch (back-up light switch) on my 4-speed manual transmission with overdrive turned out to be a relatively simple task. Contrary to the Haynes repair manual, the rear of the transmission does not have to be lowered if you use the following procedure and the right tools. I have included brands and part numbers of the tools I used for your convenience. Other brands may work just as well.
Finding and testing the switch. Tools: Set of two sturdy ramps, a short jumper wire and a 12-volt tester (a trusty assistant would be nice, but not necessary). Drive the front of the car up on the ramps. Chock the rear wheels and set the parking brake. Pop the hood to allow light to filter down through the transmission tunnel. WITH THE ENGINE OFF turn the ignition switch to the on position (engine still off). This will supply power to the reversing light switch. From the passenger side (position is important), slide under (face up) until you see the left side of the transmission. Toward the front and near the top, locate a wire with two leads going into reversing light switch. Ground the 12-volt tester and check each lead. One should be hot, the other not. Now ask your lovely assistant to shift the transmission into reverse or crawl out and do it yourself. Both leads normally will be hot. If not, the switch is probably bad. Disconnect the wire by grasping the leads near the switch and pull straight away from the side of the transmission. Close the circuit between the two leads using a short jumper wire. If the problem is the switch(and only the switch), the back-up lights should now glow.
Replacing the switch. Tools: 15" Flex Handle (Sears Craftsman 00944201000) and a standard 7/8" socket (Craftsman 00947512000). PartsAmerica and Advance Auto Parts sell a switch for about $15 (44-5040, GP SORENSEN ). Order it through your local store and save shipping. Wipe around the old switch as best you can to prevent dirt and grime from entering the transmission through the switch hole. Now, here's the trick. If you had all the room in the world you would use a deep well socket to remove the switch. But you don't, so we improvise with a standard socket. Place the 7/8" socket over the switch. The prongs on the switch will protrude slightly into the square drive hole in the socket when properly placed. YOU MAY NOT FULLY SEAT THE SOCKET ONTO THE FLEX HANDLE when loosening or tightening the switch, but it's o.k. - you don't need to. Insert the tip of the flex handle drive into the socket and gently break the switch loose. It should spin out easily. Spin the new switch on finger tight and use the flex handle and socket to appropriately torque it. DON'T OVERTIGHTEN. Use about the same force to tighten as was applied to loosen. Reconnect the leads to the new switch. I don't think it matters which one goes where.
Now I can see behind me at night. More importantly, other drivers know when I intend to back up and can get the heck out of my way.
Let me know if this is helpful.
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