The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Solved driveability mystery problem (after a lot of wasted effort) 200 1992

You know how the littlest thing can sneak by while you're checking all the important stuff?

I have posted several times about my wagon/AW70 bogging down seriously (even dangerously) when pulling away from a dead stop. Well, it wasn't the rotor or the cap or the coil or the plugs or the fuel pressure or the AMM. The throttle body and the IAC are clean. All hoses tight. etc... No trouble codes, and a disgnostic scope didn't find any either.

A few days ago I reported that disconnecting the battery fixed the problem. Well, it fixed it for a few miles, then the next day the bogging started again. The bogging would sometimes be better, sometimes worse, but always not right. Hmmmmmmm...

A couple of months ago I started hearing a little hiss from the center console when I had the floor vent button out (closed). A local shop said it was the vacuum control not closing completely, allowing some air to bypass. I noticed that I still got some air from the high-level vents so I assumed that the leak was internal to the system and not to the outside air.

So when this driveability problem started, I didn't put 2 and 2 together. Neither did the Volvo shop. Turns out, if I open the floor vent button, the hissing goes away--the valve must seal correctly in that position. AND, if I open that vent and leave it open, the problem GOES AWAY!! The car runs perfectly. Well, maybe 95% like new. It's got just a touch of hesitation, so maybe there is a leetle bitty vacuum leak somewhere else.

I was driving it tonight and closed the floor vents for a few seconds, just as an experiment. The Check Engine light came on with Code 232--"system compensating for rich or lean mixture". Hmmmmm. A vacuum leak would introduce extra air, right, making the mix lean. That's how the car ran--like it was leaning out. I deleted the code and test drove it again--no engine light.

Solving this is a strange feeling--a combination of feeling real smug that I figured it out before a Volvo repair shop could, and feeling real stupid that I messed around for a month before just trying that button in the other position. At least I didn't replace the computer.

Now If I can track down the loud BANG from the right rear hub sometimes when I go from forward to reverse or reverse to forward (all rear bushings are good, everything is tight in the rear axle), I'll be in good shape.

Doug Harvey






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.