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Don't be discouraged if it doesn't work. People seem to think these run on unobtanium or soemthing. It's just a clock.There were two types of "electric" clocks used on later 1800s, I've fixed both. WARNING:I'm going on memory from here. Details I express may differ from your reality, but the priciples are correct. The one on my current 1970 is a fragile, straight electric. Look for a fine-spring-balanced armature with, as memory serves me, a vertical axis. Use a gentle solvent to un-gum the spring and pivot points. Be sure to re-lube the pivot points (I use whale oil - which is the best clock oil). If you can't get that use some sort of "Instrument Oil" or Sewing Machine oil. Don't use motor oil.Set it up with a 12V supply and let it run for a couple of days on your workbench. You may have to repeat the procedure till you get it right. But you don't want to reinstall it in the case until you know it's working properly. Once in the car, you can adjust it (slower or faster) from the front.
The second type, which I beleive succeeded that just described, was in my old '72. It was an ingenious design. A rugged mechnical (spring wound/escapement) clock with a solenoid type auto winder. When the spring wound down, it would allow two electrical contacts to touch, momentarily enrgizing the solinod which would re-wind the spring. My guess on fixing this type of clock would be to start with the solenoid and contacts. Unless the thing was full of fuzz balls I wouldn't try to clean the movement in the clock, just lightly lubricate.
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