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83/240 Still Runs Rich, Surges at Idle


Hi,

I recently solved a similar problem with a simple fix. I repaired/replaced the 25 amp fuse for the fuel injection system. I was shocked at the condition of the fuse and fuse holder.

Here is a quick run-down on what to do.

Open the hood and look for a 10 gauge wire coming off the + side of the battery to a plastic holder that should be mounted an the inner driver's side quarter panel or wing if you happen to be British. The holder is held to a metal bracket screwed to the body. When you remove the holder it will likely crumble. Pull the fuse and inspect it. The tabs are likely to be nasty. Look inside the fuse holder at the contacts which are likely to be corroded and rusty.

Now would be a good time to disconnect the ground and the positive leads from the battery. The wire from the battery is connected to the clamp by a ring terminal. I cleaned everything up and put a new ring terminal on the wire. I removed the fuse holder and found a lug crimped to the wire which was in good condition. Same for the other side of the wire that connects to the wiring harness.

You can get a new fuse holder from the Volvo dealer for about $7.00 or got one from Radio Shack (30A) and splice it in. I was working on the fly so I did a temp job until the part came in at the dealer. I simply plugged the to lugs from each side of the circuit into a new 25 amp fuse. I crimped the lugs securely to the fuse and wrapped it up with electrical tape so it would not short out on the body or arc across the lugs and bypass the fuse.

When I drove the car I was shocked by the smooth idle, increase in power and improved gas mileage. I still cannot believe it. Total time for the fix was less than 30 minutes.

Now if I can just find a dry day to fix that overdrive wire I will be set!

Chris
'83 245 DL






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