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Speaking in general terms I think the 'D' grind cam (as original to the B20E engine) works very nicely with a stock B20 engine. More performance oriented cams will tend to shift the rpm peak upwards, and decrease the lower rpm torque to varying amounts. You could certainly always try a more radical cam, but unless you really like hearing that engine wind up past 6500 rpm the 'D' grind cam is probably best.
A great source for B18/20 cams is www.kgtrimning.com - they sell ALL the original grinds (A, C, D, K, and including those 'R sport' OE grinds F, R, and S, and even a marine grind P) for $70. They also sell their own performance grinds in 7 degrees of heat all the way up to racing only cams with 133.9 mm of lift (.547) for $180.
Lifters should definately be replaced with the cam unless you like swapping cams and lifters and would like to do it again in the near future. You (most likely) be taking the head off as well, so consider spending some money on hardened valve seats while the car is apart. They sell stock lifters for $5.50 each, and the stock pushrods and lifters are just fine for a normally driven stock B20. Modified heads with double valve springs and/or a high lift cam and/or lots of high rpm use might require the stiffer tubular rods.
Put a new fiber gear in and replace the brass thrust washer behind it as well. Again - the fiber gear is fine for a stock B20 that is driven normally - you really only need a steel one if you have the heavier valve springs, high lift cam, etc.
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