The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Bought a 122s wagon today for cheap!!! One small problem though... 120-130 1967

Simultaneously thrilled and concerned. The Swedes probably have a word for that...

I bought a 1967 122s wagon today from a kid who didn't really know that much about it. In fact, he knew SO little much about it--- (uh) that when it would no longer go into gear, he sold it to me for $200. It's in great cosmetic shape, interior's nice and complete (even has the dome light cover and-- *gasp* light turns on when the door is opened), it has a Weber DGEV and a 4 to 1 exhaust on the b18 which runs great.

When I got to the car, it was stuck in reverse so we rocked it back and forth and I popped it out into neutral. Started it up and was greeted with a HORRIBLE grinding scrape coming from the gearbox so I shut it off. I jacked up the rear end so both wheels were off the ground, clutch in, started it and tried to "drive" it but if I let the clutch out in any of the gears it would grind and scream. With the clutch in, it purred like a cute, fuzzy kitten all warm and snuggly in bed but the gearshift felt like a broomstick in a bucket of rocks... Reverse would work but not without some noise. I couldn't get it into 4th at all. I crawled under and checked the gearbox oil. When I opened the filler plug a moth flew out wearing sunglasses (at this point it was late and I was hallucinating). I stuck my finger in there: BONE DRY!! I've had seven cars with this M40 transmission and never had any problems, but of course I'd keep an eye on the gearbox oil. I've heard that these gearboxes are indestuctable, but I'm assuming that applies to M40s with oil in them. i filled it up with Hypoid out of spite and tried again, but it seems like too little too late. For all I know, he drove it for the entire year he owned it with no transmission oil! But hey, it was cheap and it's a great (ahem) I mean green car.

AT ANY RATE, I have some questions:

Is it safe to assume the gearbox is completely trashed and I need to replace it? I think I already know the answer, but am hoping some guru will say there's just a screw I can turn and it'll be all better.

Some magical screw.

Somewhere.

I have an M41, J type, which was in the trunk of a 2 door 122s I got at an auction (it's for sale in Seattle, by the way-- and what's the term for a car that's really fast but looks like it's not? Sleeper? It's a sleeper. inquire for more info) and I know nothing about the condition of the transmission. Appears to be complete, sans driveline. Is there any way to easily determine whether it's good or not? I'll gladly put it in to the new wagon, but have never done much serious transmission work. Well, I've never really done any transmission work. And, although it's easier to type, I refuse to use the word "tranny".

Thanks in advance for any soothing words of advice, support or criticism,

ben blankenship
seattle
'62 p1800
'71 145
'67 122s
'67 122s estate
--
/ / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / / /






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.