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The oil cap gasket will be the first suspect, but even the valve cover gasket isn't that hard or costly to replace. Deeper down, it could be the oil trap box (driver side, in front of the starter, sits down low on the block) causing the pressure buildup in the first place, but that's still under $50 for a DIY.
The oil on the lines may be residue from an oil change, or could be a weeping oil seals around the turbo. Kinda hard to tell without cleaning up the area and reinspecting. If it's the oil return line leaking, silicone works well enough for a patch until the turbo comes out. If it's the oil cooler adapter, then it's a bit more work.
The rattle could be the exhaust down pipe hitting the chassis. A $3 muffler pipe hanger, used as a restraint, worked for me. Or it could be the mounts. If there's a good jolt when shifting between reverse and forward, then the mounts are the bigger suspect.
Around here, turbo repair could come as low as a few hundred for a DIY to a thousand plus for full service. But the frequent oil changes (even regular oil) are a good thing, and does promote the longevity. If it was synthetic, then even better.
For everything else, condition is everything. Interior, exterior, power accessories, etc.
I bought my '91 a little more than a year and a half ago. 176k miles, with most service records, very clean otherwise. Fully loaded otherwise, but with a factory M46 (rare). It's up to 194k now, still with the original engine, original turbo, original transmission, and original clutch.
-- Kane ... the rims are mine's, though.
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Blossom II - '91 745Ti/M46 ... Bubbles - '74 144GL/BW35 ... Buttercup - '86 245GL/AW70 ... The Wayback Machine - '64 P220/M40
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