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This thread needs a dissenting opinion so here it is. I got two replacement airbox t'stats from FCP Groton ($7 each I think), and checked them out by putting the whole airbox unit in the freezer, then out in the sun. It was kinda cool to see the tiny 'stat push that flapper shut against that strong spring! I put them back in the cars (81 and 83) and put one of those little indoor/outdoor electric LCD thermometers in the airbox behind the filter, through the small rubber bung in the top, and the readout/display on the dash. Both cars would quickly heat up to about 60F on a chilly morning and stay there. So the thing works. When the temp did go above 60, it was because of the outside air temp rising.
If the sheet metal shroud on the downpipes rattles, tighten its bolt.
If you don't have a working stat (ie: failed to the hot position), and you just disconnect the hose, you are still drawing air from inside the engine compartment, which will be plenty warmer than ambient temp. This can be cured by running the other end of the preheat hose to a cool air location, modifying the airbox so it draws only from the front snorkel...(or by putting in a working stat).
Before I got the new stats, I had the preheat hose disconnected and the smog tech spotted that and reconnected it and noted it in his report. So at least in CA, they check.
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Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F)
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