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The front main seal housing is secured with (I think) four bolts through the front, into the block, and two bolts up from the pan into the housing. You won't have to touch the pan gasket.
The difficult part is that the housing also sits tightly on two alignment pins (that fit into the block). So starting the housing outward, away from the block, is sometimes a chore because the pins get rusty and/or varnished, "gluing" the housing in place. I've successfully used a thin knife blade to pry the housing out, one side at a time, a few thousandths of an inch until I could get a putty knife (gasket scraper) under it. Be sure to pry evenly, left-right-left-right, a bit at a time.
Be prepared with a new housing gasket, although in a pinch you can make a new one from a glossy magazine cover (done it).
The cam seal pops out very easily if you first remove the valve cover and the front cam bearing cap.
Be very sure to clean all surfaces, and remember to prelube the seal lips. If you start the engine with dry seals, they'll last about 5 seconds.
I've had good luck with Scan Tech products.
Be sure that your crankcase ventilation system ("flame trap" and associated plumbing) is free and clear and that you have crankcase vacuum at idle. Positive pressure can make otherwise good seals weep a bit.
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Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)
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