|
help help help help help help help helphelp help help help help help help help
<>>
unable to obtain a bosch. but the first one i bought was under warranty so i just took it back. then the replacement failed in one day, may 3 hrs run time.
<>>
where is that 25 amp fuse at. what does it look like.
in ref to dave's post.
both pumps run when given power. i have a multi-meter, but don't know how to check to see if either pump is pulling to much current. could use some pointers there.
took in tank pump out rubber hose is intact.
pulled the return line off of pres reg valve got lots of flow. so i assume it's okay.
i was told by a hungarian that he jumped the fuses on his wifes car and ran like that for a year. i tried it. used some thing that doesn't energize till key is in position II car started (tried 3 different places lights, defrost and one other). great. turned key off. engine kept going till i pulled the jumper wire?????
when i jump from main pump fuse (or any that was hot with key off) to in tank, car started and stopped but pump didn't.
in ref to oil leak
<< have you checked the oil trap box >>>
i took every thing from the intake manifold orifice to the oil trap box on the block off for a clean and inspect. no blockage any where. i even cleaned the small tube conected to the orifice, which also was not blocked. all pcv componets are clear. lots off vacuum at the orifice. where the 1/2 or so hose that connects before the throttle is there is no vac there. i didn't know if it was normal for it to be like that at idle ????
still got pressure on the engine. oil fill cap jumps and rattles. is there any thing else that could cause that pressure.
need to have car up and running by tue night if possible. have to go to ga from va to get my little girl (600+mi one way).
help help help help help help help helphelp help help help help help help help
|
