|
The real tool has four parts that have a beveled surfaces or a ridge to keep the bushing and tool true to center no matter what the forces.
The part to remove the bushing has an internal bevel with a slight shoulder and fits inside the flanges.
The part to install the bushing has a larger flat surface with a ridge that fits inside the bushing. When the flat surface hits the flange the tool stops and the bushing is in the proper position between the ears.
The tube part that does the receiving of the old bushing has an internal bevel on both ends that keeps the tool centered on the flange and the driver centered on it.
The driver has an internal bevel with external shoulder to hold it centered on the flange or tube since it does double duty as removal and install driver. The internal bevel of the driver with external shoulder just fits the depth of the axle flange to prevent the tool from collapsing the ears when the new bushing is in final position and the flat of the installer hits the other flange. You just cannot drive the new bushing too far. The tool just stops when the bushing is in place.
All the above requires some pretty close tolerance machine work that if done outside a home shop would probably push the cost of the tool way above the mass produced price of the Factory tool. (Ask me how I know!) If done inside the home shop, would the time spent really amount to a savings vs the Factory tool purchase?
IMHOP, the home made tool has some difficulties that can be overcome if used as designed. To do so would add some additional frustration to an already difficult task.
Do not get me wrong, the tool is ingenious in its simplicity. It is that simplicity that leaves out some assitance in location holding and positioning the factory tool provides.
Heck, even the factory tool has problems right out of the box. These limit the factory tool to ten to twelve autos at best which is why some shops charge so much to do these bushings. They have to replace the tool at some point so have to include the cost spread over the average life of the tool.
These problems are also in the home made tool. Metal to metal contact at the point of rotation of drive nut. Lots of friction that chews up the contact surfaces over time even if greased well. My tool showed this after one auto and was really bad after two.
This friction also increases the effort required to remove and install the bushing.
The real killer of the factory tool is stretch of the through bolt and deformation of threads on the bolt and drive system. This eventually destroys the bolt and drive nut system. My tool lasted eleven autos even after I had eliminated the metal to metal contact of the drive system.
Duane
|
