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·"Rear main seal, tranny rear bushing 'n seal, center support bearing, water pump, front seals, radiator seems fine at least nothing leaking..." “Oooooo..... But at almost 200k miles, they're all overdue. Replacing the rear main seal is a bit of a task. The others are a Saturday morning jobs.
Q - Are all of this things part of an auto transmission except for the water pump and radiator?
Q - Since these parts are now all over due, can I just use the books (Haynes) that you can get from an auto parts store to do most jobs or do I need to purchase a factory service manual? Is there also some information online that can help me do the replacement myself? BTW, how much difficult is it to do the rear main seal?
·“The bun warmers do not work." “The bun warmers are usually not difficult to repair. A common problem is a broken wire at the temperature safety switch. This can help bring the price down, because the Volvo dealer would probably charge $400-500 to repair something that you can do for $0 in about 2 hours.“
Q - Is the temperature safety switch behind the bun warmer switches or is it the temperature switch H<->C dash switch?
·"For an '89, what symptoms does a bad FI ECU do?"
It quits. Others here (Bob Haire, for one) know a bunch more than I do about this -- but a later, more robust FI ecu is a good replacement.
Q – Where can I purchase this more robust FI ecu besides the dealer? Any part no. that you know of hand and how much will this run?
·"... said that a while back the car would stall while it's running and he had to pull over to the side..." Sounds A LOT like an intermittent fuel pump relay. This realy, and all others (such as the OD relay) can be resoldered for $0 and will be even better than new. However, the problem you described could also be the FI ecu.
Q – Would you let me know which parts that can be resoldered besides those two that are mentioned?
·A shrunk gasket is typical for that style window trim. The gasket doesn't do much, and is NOT responsible for sealing out water. Sealing is accomplished by the butyl rubber goop that glues the windshield to the body.
Q – Thank God that part is not leaking. I was thinking of using some of that Permatex Liquid Metal to cover up that gap. Have you used this stuff before with good results?
·"Sunroof leaks (actually one drop of water when I test drove the car after some rain all day - How do I fix this one?) but the carpets never get soaked. The carpet are dry and the bare floorboards dont have any rusts after pulling up the carpet near the doors."
No clue. I suspect it's an aftermarket sunroof. However, I'd carefully inspect the gasket for dirt, leaves, pine needles, or other crap that could allow water to "wick" in.
Q – It’s a manual sunroof. Inspected any dirt that would allow water but nothing was found. Yesterday, I got a chance to read a Consumer Report book and mentioned something about some models having wicks that get saturated when it rains causing the water to come inside. Any ideas???
Thanks for all your help Don. I really like the car since just like what you said that it’s very traditional and most repairs are straightforward. Would you recommend for me to purchase a factory service manual as well as a Hayes manual? BTW, what do you think now of the seller's $500 selling price in two payments?
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