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Tell me you're not actually talking about the connector on the LH Jetronic ECU? a) I didn't think they were problematic. b) Re-soldering a 34+ pin replacement connector would be extremely tedious. c) I can't imagine special inserts for that connector.
I have to asssume you are talking about the main block connector on the firewall in the engine compartment. Volvo does have sleeve inserts for those connectors so I assume that's what you used. However, the Volvo TSB doesn't indicate it applies to an '85 240, just 700/900's up to about 91/92/93. In those cars the original pins weren't quite long enough to be pushed tightly together by the connector. The sleeves made up the difference. In other situations, possibly yours, if pins have been bent or forced so that they now sit back too far in the connector then I can see those sleeves being a solution. You can also try pushing problematic pins together from the back sides. Where female pins have een stretched open or male pins crushed or bent, you can try gently prying them back to shape with a tiny jeweller's screwdriver. You may even want to extract the pin to repair or replace it (Radio Shack sells pin extractors, a thin jeweller's screwdriver can also be used).
If I'm onto your situation correctly, for your year I would be very suspicious that the engine wiring harness insulation is disintegrating and causing some or all of your problems. Another possibility is that your fuel pump relay is acting intermittently (try re-soldering it). Crumbling wire insulation may not be visible, but the wires on the alternator, oil pressure sensor (nearby) and block temp sensor (under the intake manifold) will usually show signs. Something as simple as dry weather or moving the wiring harness may make the problem go away temporarily. If you enjoy soldering then you can re-build the harness yourself or at least bypass the more important sensor connections, but replacement is the simplest option and Volvo has gone out of its way to keep the price down on these. They are also available aftermarket.
Whether I'm on track or not, for intermittent electrical problems I would strongly recommend starting with an electrical system tune-up. Volvo even has a TSB on the subject. Here are the basics, you've done some, but maybe not all of this. Our long in the tooth '85 240 has done well by it despite all the damp weather up here in the Pacific Northwest. The idea is to clean up and seal as many engine electrical connectors as you can. Anything with a rubber boot on it should be on the hit list, including the AMM and the ignition module. If you're ambitious, you can do the main ECU connector (be very careful not to force anything) and chassis grounds there especially if there is any chance that moisture has gotten into that area (like from a window leak). Other under-hood connectors and ground points should be included. Open connectors up, use proper electronic spray contact cleaner, shake dry, pack the pin sockets with dielectric grease (but not the hot O2 sensor), replace the connectors and wipe more dielectric grease inside the lips of rubber boots to keep out moisture (you can also do this to the ignition wire boots). On grounds and the O2 sensor, rather than dielectric grease use an anti-oxidant protectant like OxGuard (in many hardware stores as it's required for connecting aluminum to copper wiring). Repair any damaged boots with RTV sealent. For block connectors, once reconnected, make sure all pins remain properly seated (ie. look from the back side for even insertion). Last, but not least, if you haven't replaced that troublesome 25amp main fuse holder under the hood (left fender) then cut it out and solder in a marine grade fuse holder (molded rubber with a sealed cap -ipd sells them if you don't have a marine supplier nearby).
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-Dave (not to be confused with a real expert, just goofing around at this)
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