The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Flame trap relocation 200 1981

1981 K-Jet? That's exactly the one I have. I had the manifold off recently and installed a new breather box, new temp gauge sensor, new injector seals, took off the throttle body and cleaned it, among other things that came up. I relocated the flame trap without doing or buying anything special. If you can wait, I can give you more detail after I visit my daughter this weak because I loaned her the car for a few days.

Basically, it involved buying a length of 5/8 ID PVC hose about two+ feet long, and finding a 3-inch long scrap of 5/8 OD copper pipe at my friend's construction site. I bought a new-style flame trap assembly from Groton for about $2.50 and returned the one I had bought at the dealer for $13. It's the same style as on my daughter's 86. I pushed one end of the 5/8 ID PVC hose over the nipple on the new breather box. The nipple is angled a bit toward the front of the car. Good. Continue the angle and route it a little toward the driver's side. Stay on the passenger side of the bellows. I could detail the exact route for you later. I remember it took a couple tries, but there is a clean non-kinking route available for the hose. The hose comes out from under the manifold at the front edge of the manifold. Smooth up the edges of the copper pipe and push it about an inch into the new hose. Then push the new flame trap over the exposed end of the copper pipe. I wish the car were here right now so I could describe it more accurately. It's a clean layout. Cut the 5/8 hose so that the new flame trap ends up just in front of the bottom edge of the front of the manifold. The little line from it loops up to the top of the manifold and the big line from it goes to the front of the intake system below the bellows. It's nice. The trap is right there and very easily reached. Getting the old hose out of the hole in the intake system below the bellows is tough. In fact, for the time being, I gave up on that, trimmed the old hose to about an inch and spliced the new system to it with another short length of pipe and hose clamps. I'll do that part right when I install the new wiring harness I just got from Dave Barton.

Whatever you do, don't skip testing the breather box. Shove the new hose over the nipple, take the oil filler cap off, and blow by mouth through the hose. You should be able to blow easily through the system and feel your breath come out the oil filler cap hole. Extremely simple test while the manifold is off. Much tougher with it one. The easier it is to blow through, the easier your crankcase will breathe. Let it breathe. Good luck. Let me know if you need more detail later. I'll have the car back in a week.
--
Thanks to everyone for the help, Doug C. 81 242 Brick Off Blocks, stock; 86 240, 130K






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.