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I just wanted to file an update with a big thanks for those that helped me sort this problem out. The Brickboard is an amazing resource for anyone not too afraid of grease (and more time than money). It took some, and then some, effort, but the car is now running stronger than ever. My original post and thread is at (if anyone is interested): http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=597909&show_all=1
The consistent BAD behavior was that the car would not start after it had been sitting for awhile. After many cranks, it would finally start and then immediately die, as the idle never kicked in high and went quickly to the dreaded zero. In cold weather, it was near impossible to get it started.
The gradual solution:
Well, thanks to the Brickboard posts and FAQs, I started out with a change of the wire harness, which was an embarrassing disgrace that no car really deserves. I was referred, via posts, to Dave Barton and his website, http://www.linkline.com/personal/dbarton/WireHarnesses.html, that sells these for $160 a piece. The harness arrived shortly thereafter and actually resembled electrical wiring, rather than the bird's nest then in place. Although used, the harness was post-88 and in immaculate condition. Being a relative novice who still wonder what some parts in the engine compartment are, the installation was honestly dreaded but actually went very easily and quickly. The $900 I had been quoted for this job seemed like a very expensive joke. The $160 for the harness, removed from a junked car and cleaned, seemed like the bargain of the new century. Unfortunately, the starting problem persisted after installation.
Next up was a change of the Fuel Pump Check Valve, which cost $14 via the Internet. (The Volvo dealer that quoted $900 for the harness work asked $45.) It took forever to install, simply because the parts were basically "welded" together underneath the car. After much upside down swearing, and huge doses of Prolong lubricant, they finally came apart for installation of a shiny new fitting. In the old valve, the central divide that maintains the pressure was almost worn out; it was more like a thread than a nail in thickness. Hope of a resolution was high. However, the car would still not start properly after sitting.
I moved on to remove the throttle body (gasket: $1.08) for thorough cleaning with carb/fuel "solvent" and replace the coolant temperature sensor ($27) in the engine block at the same time. It's obviously very easy to get the throttle body off, and the sensor is then comfortably reachable. I saw a recommendation here on the Brickboard to take off the entire intake manifold, but that is completely unnecessary in my view. Use a deep socket, 19mm I believe, and some extensions plus one of those twisty links (sorry about the lack of jargon) on a ratchet to remove and replace the sensor.
Once reassembled, a powerful brooom. The car starts right away; idles perfectly. Thanks to the Brickboard, what would no doubt have been a $1000 and upward repair nightmare turned out to cost around $200 in total, with some valuable lessons learnt along the way. And, by the way, the owner of this car was charged and invoiced for a fuel filter replacement at a mechanic earlier this winter. The work was never done, as I found out when changing the check valve. Another very good reason to go DIY ;-)
Again, thanks!
Are Flagan
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