|
I'm in a dire position here board,
My car has been cutting out on me momentarily during driving where the tach will drop to zero and then if I'm lucking it will bounce back and the car works again. This is accompanied by a total loss in power that lasts just as long. Sometimes the car won't restart, however, and I have gotten it towed by AAA twice. Each time when it gets to the mechanic it starts again and he can't diagnose anything. The most recent time it was only 25 minutes until I got it to him. So, I plan on trying to do whatever I can next time it breaks down to diagnose it myself. I know where the distributor is and how to remove the cap and rotor, I know where the hall sensor wires are, and I know where the coil is. What should I do next time this thing breaks down? How can I test it myself on the side of the road and what tools will I need?
I believe I will need to test the hall sensor and coil. Possibly the fuel pump. From the faq I gather to test the hall sensor by disconnecting the connector at the base of the distributor cap and measure voltage and resistance of hte wires. I don't think I need to remove the cap, do I? "When the ignition is ON the Voltage between positive terminal (red lead -Nr. 3) and ground should be approx. 11V. Voltage between (blue lead - Nr.2; middle one) and ground should be 5V. Resistance between (black lead - Nr. 1) and ground should be "0" Ohms. "
What is the rear control unit connector mentioned by the faq for further hall sensor testing?.. The faq says: "- Disconnect the/red and blue leads from ignition coil. - Measure voltage between terminal 24 at rear of control unit connector (blue lead) and ground. NOTE: Connector must be attached to control unit. Switch on ignition. Turn crankshaft by hand. Voltage should indicate OVER 1.8V each time a vane passes Hall generator. Instrument should read approx."0" (0 - 0.7V) each time an opening passes Hall generator. The correct voltage is less than 0.7V or more than 1.8V. "
Does this sound like fuel pump relay problems also? I was going to buy one but autozone didn't carry them. Since it might be that simple I am actually not going to resolder the old one. I'm buying one from fcpgroton and will have it with me next time I drive. When car dies I'll replace the old one, that way I'll be able to tell if the relay fixes the prob.
How can I test the coil?
What laundry list of tools should I keep in my car? This is what I've got:
multimeter
new fuel pump relay
wire cutters/pocket knife
pliers
Thanks, and terribly sorry the board made empty posts for me earlier,
Nathan
ps. I can't continue having it towed, and the mechanic not being able to do anything. Also, it'd be expensive to keep replacing parts as the other alternative.
|
