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I would go with what Erling says.
My (both, now) 122 wagons have a very sturdy trailer hitch rig bolted to
the frame and while there is welding in the hitch framework it is not welded
to the frame. I think that is a better deal.
You have several factors in towing. Of course how you drive is the most
important. Towing definitely changes how things work and you DON'T want
the towed load to be in control of where your car goes. Towed loads lack
the necessary perception and wisdom to be driving YOUR car!
Having said that I'll say that I have towed my 164 with my 122 wagon.
I didn't like it but it was OK.
The power train is pretty sturdy unless badly worn, poorly maintained or
abused. Loose axle nuts will kill you because the axle keys are not
strong enough by themselves to deal with very heavy loads, and when they
shear they can damage both the axle and the hub.
Overheating can be a problem with heavy loads, especially if your ignition
is not advanced far enough. It took me a number of years to learn to check
ignition timing early in the game.
Brakes are VERY important, especially if you don't have a functioning servo/booster. Here again you can run into the problem of the towed load
suddenly being in control. Trailer brakes are great but you gotta remember
to apply them first so the trailer holds you back rather than pushing you
forward against your brakes.
To the best of my knowledge the rated internal load of the 222 is 1000#,
or maybe 1100 (if metric). Small difference. In any case normally you can
figure that the towed load can be twice what the carried load can be. Again,
trailer brakes help a LOT.
Mountainous terrain will reduce that and cross-country normally cuts it in half. (at least that is how the Army figures it.)
Hope this helps.
--
George Downs, The "original" Walrus3, Bartlesville, Oklahoma
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