|
I am not tempted but I'll answer anyway. HoHoHo
Now that the coolant has been drained down enough, start on the thermostat.
Tips:
When you take off the motor lift loop, remember where you put it so's you can put it back on without a long embarassing search.
Remove the upper hose from the housing, then the housing from the head.
When retorquing the housing studs, stay light. The ring gasket does a dandy job. Remember that the housing is made of pot metal, and over-torquing can crack it - and that's a jolly kettle of fish at 1AM Monday morning! Puts one in Limp-to-Work mode.
Clean the surfaces of the housing and the head where the gasket will seat. I use a small flat tip screwdriver, works fine especially in the groove in the housing. If you use a razor blade scraper, use light pressure. The razor blade steel is harder than the aluminum, and it is possible to carve off some of the head metal!
When it's time to reassemble, I always put the thermostat into the housing with the little vent at 11 0'clock, and then run a string or wire from the thermostat cross piece out of the housing, so I can hold the thermostat in place while mounting it onto the studs. Dang thing always slipped otherwise.
After everything is done, add coolant and start the engine. While it warms up, give the upper hose a pinch every now and then to help air bubbles to get moving out.
I carry a jug of coolant for a while after a new thermostat. The air gets all the way out after more than just a few miles, and topping up may be needed.
BTW If you mix green Prestone 50/50 with steam distilled water, it's a good coolant. AND, if you are confronted with overheating and must keep going, head first for the nearest grocery store for a couple gallons of that water.
Finally - the overheating problem you have may not be solved with an new thermostat. Use a Volvo thermostat, the 92C type.
Good Luck,
Bob
:>)
PS Put a whole lot of old newspapers under the car, helps clean up enormously.
|
