The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Testing compression 700 1989

You have to crank the engine with the electric starter and a stout battery to spin it fast and consistently enough to get a valid compression test. Pull all the plugs, and disconnect the coil primary circuit by pulling off the brown wire and making sure it doesn't touch anything. Use a screw-in gauge if possible. You are looking for all cylinders to be fairly close to each other (say 15 psi max range) rather than the actual numbers, which are dependent on technique, (throttle open or closed, engine warm or not, etc).

KBB value for one of these in "good" condition around here is $2900. Your deal looks good - maybe too good?

If there is any doubt about the car, getting a mechanic's opinion would be very advisable - the cost to do repairs could easily exceed your purchase price.
--
Bob (81-244GL B21F, 83-244DL B23F, 94-940Sedan B230FD)






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.