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Pierre you will be amazed at how forgiving engines can be. First, if the bore is nicely burnished with no vertical scratches, then don't bother honing it. If the "new" piston and rod assembly shows no scuffing on the piston skirt, and the rings stand out from the piston with good tension, and are clean, then install the piston as is. Make sure it is clean however. The ring gap placement is not as critical as one would think. The rings tend to walk around the piston in operation - this keeps the piston ring groove clean and distributes the wear evenly. Simply install the rings alternately in line with the wrist pin holes. Make sure they can move freely in the grooves. The rings will wear into the bore without any problem - if it burns oil at all it will do so only briefly. Use the rod bearings that came with the rod in the original locations top and bottom - do not swap used bearings between rods. That much is a no-no.
The bigger question is what is the original problem. If you do not have the piston out of the engine, then you will have to in order to determine the real cause of the noise. A small end bushing that causes noise will have noticeable play (once the oil has been washed out - use brakeclean or something like that). Hold the piston at a slight angle to the right when facing the front of the piston and rod, and rock the piston across the pin. Most small end bushings will pound out a few degrees from vertical. If the small end bushing has no or little play, then a rod bearing or collapsed skirt on the piston might be the problem. Piston slap can be seen as a carbon free zone above the top ring on the thrust surface of the piston (right side). Also the skirt may be scuffed. Don't put it together until you determine the cause of the noise.
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