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1978 242 3" lift (diesel front springs, 245 rear springs and lift blocks)
So here I am without a press, (don't want to spend $200 on a small press) and a too far out of town to go to a shop easily (plus $20 per bushing bites....)
Here's what I used:
1.) 8"C-clamp
2.) Piece of 2 7/8" dia. x 4" long, drill stem (or similar pipe), ID is large enough to fit outside the lip on the bushing collar of the control arm.
3.) a piece of flat bar, or angle iron, long enough to fit across the end of the bushing (8" long), another piece fits across the end of the 2 3/8" dia. pipe.
First I removed the lower control arms from the car - easier than fighting underneath it...
Place the pipe onthe side of the bushing that you are pressing it out...
Put one piece of flat bar across the pipe, the other across the bushing, center the clamp then start to slowly tighten as far as possible.
I was able to put enough pressure on the rear bushing using the C-clamp. with the C-clamp squeezed tight, rap the bushing with a hammer, it will move. Repeat...
For the smaller front bushings....
Use the old center sleeve from the rear (large) bushing to press out the rubber and inner sleeve on the front bushing. Now what is left is the outer sleeve.
Here is the trick!!
Clamp the control arm to the bench, take a hacksaw, or as I did, a metal blade in a reciprocating saw is faster and easier (wear safety glases and gloves), and
slice the sleeve lengthwise in 4 places. You do not have to slice all the way through, and you do not want to slice into the control arm socket.
Then using a cold chisel, knock the 4 pieces into the center.
As far as installing the new bushings - the tip to set the bushings in the freezer for a few hours prior to installing them (to allow the bushing to contract) seemed to have worked.
They went in smoothly with a few hammer blows (3 lb. blacksmith hammer).
In my line of work we have a saying - "If it doesn't fit - get a bigger hammer."
Just finished putting the front end together - new ball joints, tie rod ends, inner tie rod, lower control arm bushings, Inner tie rod boots.
Looks real spiffy under there now, and feel more solid.
The only thing I am wondering is that when I "swerve" as if doing an avoidance maneuvere, the inside rear corner wants to lift (unweights)- swerve right, right corner comes up.
This is at moderate speed without braking, when braking at the same time the inside rear wheel unweights even faster.
Any handling ideas..
I understand that the lift would affect it somewhat, but with new KYB front strut cartridges, all new front bushings, shouldn't this handle reasonably flat.
Our 87 245 with stock suspension handles much flatter.
Ideas appreciated..
Thanks in advance.
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