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Steve Ringlee - Feel free to add to FAQ. I'll have some pictures for you one of these days.
Evaporator Replacement-1993 940
The most difficult thing about this job is finding all the screws that need to be removed. Plan for a full day. Patience is vital, because if parts of the evaporator housing are damaged, you will have a very difficult time remounting the blower and obtaining a satisfactory seal. I paid $175 from fcpgroton for a new evaporator. The dealer will charge you about $1000-1200 to replace the evap and recharge the system.
1. Take appropriate safety precautions. Consider disconnecting battery for extra safety.
2. Properly drain refrigerant
3. Disconnect evaporator to drier/receiver connections in engine compartment. Be careful to use 2 wrenches to apply the proper amount of counter-torque to prevent damage. Be sure to have new o-rings on hand. Tightly plug the drier open connections immediately because moisture may damage the drier. Since I was replacing the compressor too, my parts supplier suggested a new drier. Might be something to consider with a new evap anyway.
4. Remove right side sill trim, side panel, panel under glove box and the glove box. Removing the dash is not really necessary.
5. Disconnect control module cable (clip), remove control module (2 screws), and its mounting bracket (3 screws)
6. Disconnect electrical connections to blower and resistor (3 plugs). Remove 3 screws to remove the blower.
7. Remove approximately 9 screws around front, side and back of the evaporator housing. Note that 740's/760's/940's/960's may have different evaporator housings so the number of screws and procedure may vary. What you are trying to remove is the lower half of the duct which extends from the cylindrical potion containing the blower going to the left to a point where you may see a label for the evaporator. Coming down vertically from this point, underneath, you will see 4 circular grommet looking things. That is the other end of the lower housing you will need to remove. Being extremely patient and flexible is a vital skill. Make sure you find all the screws because they are hard to find, particularly near the firewall. I used a combination of sockets (7mm), ratchets, flexible socket driver, and bought a cheap box wrench and bent it into shape to be able to get all the screws out. When you have all the screws out, gently pry the lower half off. This may require a little bit of force, because there is very sticky mastic sealing the lower half to the upper. It may be a little difficult to tell the difference between mastic and a screw, but if you leave a screw in and break the duct, you’ll have to install some more screws to get a good seal when reinstalling the housing. I found that I had to install some new screws anyway, because various parts of the housing broke anyway, and plastic doesn’t seem to care for having screws removed and reinserted. I had to oversize some of the screws to get a good bite.
8. Pull out the old evaporator and install the new one. Transfer the filter and rubber seal from the old evaporator to the new. This will require cleaning the old filter and gluing on the seal. I used duct tape to keep the nuts from sliding down the pipes while installing the evaporator. Also, this will take some trial and error to get the evaporator up into the housing high enough to get the threaded connections at their proper location in the engine compartment.
9. Replace the mastic with new sealant if necessary. Replace the lower duct housing, blower, electrical connections and trim.
10. Reconnect evaporator-drier/receiver connections in engine compartment. Again, be careful to use 2 wrenches to apply the proper amount of counter-torque to prevent damage. I recommend using new o-rings.
11. Evacuate and refill with refrigerant.
12. Reconnect the battery.
13. Enjoy cool air.
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