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Now that I have several t-belt changes under my belt (pun intended), I have found a few ideas which make the T-belt change easier, especially on the B23 engine. Since I didn't find these in the archives, maybe they would be of help to others. I find that the B23 engine t-belt change is harder to do than on the B230. The main reason is that the crank sprocket is partially covered by the lower part of the seal housing. This makes it hard to start with the double lines on the t-belt at the timing mark behind the sprocket then winding the belt anti-clockwise up to the aux shaft sprocket and then to the cam sprocket. I find it easier do do it in reverse. Here are the steps I followed and it was an easy job.
1. Compress the tensioner by pushing on the old t-belt a few inches below the tensioner bearing. The laws of mechanics will show that you have more leverage on the tensioner spring this way. As the hole in the shaft under the spring is exposed, insert a nail in the hole to hold back the spring. NOW take a second nail (8 penny) bent in the shape of a small horseshoe. Again press the t-belt some more to push the spring still farther back. Slip the second nail around the shaft just to the left of the first nail This will hold the tensioner bearing back a little more and the new t-belt will go on the tensioner much more easily. This would help on the B230 also.
2. Line up all three sprockets with their respective timing marks.
3. Lay the t-belt over the sprockets with the white line on the belt in line with the timing mark on the cam sprocket.
4. Take a small c-clamp and lightly clamp the t-belt onto the cam sprocket to hold it in place.
5. Take another small c-clamp and lightly clamp the cam sprocket to the cam cover so that the sprocket won't turn.
6. Run the t-belt down to the aux shaft sprocket placing the next white line onto the aux sprocket so that it is on the sprocket mark and in line with the timing mark behind the sprocket.
7. Use a small spring clamp to hold the t-belt in place on the aux sprocket.
8. Run the t-belt down around the crankshaft spocket tightly up around farther and slip it over the tensioner bearing.
9. Make sure the tensioner lock nut is tight and remove the two nails.
10. Release the tensioner lock nut slowly allowing the tensioner to take up the slack in the t-belt gradually.
11. Take a socket wrench and turn the crankshaft 2 turns clockwise and check to see if all three timing marks on the sprockets match the marks behind the sprockets.
12. As an added bonus, here's how I replaced the AC belt and reassembled that ******! split pulley on the crankshaft.
a. Place the pulley parts on the crankshaft (don't forget the shims) and put on the 4 bolts plus 2 nuts very loosely leaving the two pulley halves quite far apart.
b. Slip the new AC belt over the loose crank pulley and around the AC pulley. The loose crank pulley leaves plenty of slack in the belt to do this.
c. Partially tighten the 3 crank pulley bots/nuts on the side of the pulley toward the AC pulley. Use a socket wrench to turn the crankshaft 1/2 turn. Tighten the next 3 bolts/nut the same as the first three.
d. Continue turning and tightening until all 6 bolts/nuts are tight. Now you are done! This procedure "walks" the tight belt up on the pulley and saves lots of grief.
Hope this is of help to those of us who are new to this.
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