The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

actually, actually 140-160 1968

In addition to taking 30 mil off the head, you can also use a .030 head gasket instead of a .050, which will get you 9.5 CR (or so). You can also deck the block, which has benefits in the squish department as well as raising CR. I would do both those things and shave the head last, if I were rebuilding an entire motor. If I were leaving the block alone, I'd at least go for the thinner gasket.

The later, thicker-flanged exhaust manifold flows a lot better than the early separate one, so you can make up the difference by using -- carefully -- flat washers cut nearly in half on the studs common to both intake and exhaust.






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.