The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

All depends... 120-130

If it really is an advance dizzy, setting the timing depends on where it's connected. If it hooks directly to the manifold vacuum, set the timing with the vacuum disconnect, and ignore the fact that it jumps way up at idle. If it doesn't ping, don't retard it. When you hit the gas, the vacuum advance will back off and actually retard the timing -- to where it needs to be. If you set the timing with the vacuum connected, it'll go WAY retarded when you try to accelerate, giving you a nasty bog.

If it's hooked to a port outboard of the throttle plates (Weber downdrafts have a port there, for instance), the vacuum advance is basically inop at idle and it doesn't matter whether you time it connected or not. It cannot contribute to bogging in that case; it can only quicken the advance curve (which may or may not be a good thing).

Most vacuum dizzies on the old Volvos are retard units, which the consensus seems to be are best left disconnected.






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.