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Someone else earlier mentioned that a bad Air and fuel intake manifold gasket could do something like my bad idle (esp. if it gets better after warming up). I used a 13 mm wrench to "lightly" tighten those nuts as Foster suggested and there seemed to be an improvement in power and less 'missing'. But it could be only that it's warmed up more?
The surgeing? I was off a little on 'times'. Not every 3 seconds more like every one and half second (or less)? . I checked my distributer cap and saw some corrosion and Attempted to take off distributor rotor.... it didn't come off. Am I doing something wrong? I didn't want to muscle it and break it. It should just come out upwards shouldn't it? I lightly sanded the corrosion of the contacts inside cap...but nothing major in improvement.
I found one cracked and open vapor line from fuel throttle body to emissions canister and disconnected it and it didn't affect anything....perhaps a lot of leaks in that system... would that effect the idle and general performance if either opening to emissions control from top of throttle body? I completely disconnected it and left the gaping hole while engine ran and heard no performance difference. Also the surging (maybe more like 'missing') is really throughout the whole rpm spectrum but more noticible in idling...but I just don't notice when in drive mode in higher rpm... I think this has been bad since I got the car ...but not enough even to bother the two or three mechanics I have had on it....as they were more interested in racking up the bill on the brakes and tie rod repairs. I asked them about it and they didn't think it was bad enough to notice.
So far seems like keeping the oil level at the top of the line of dipstick and tightening these bolts afore mentioned and adjusting idle/throttle body adjuster upwards (loosening it) have made the most improvements....
I tried to find my PCV flametrap thingy and so far I am having trouble finding it. (I am sure it needs to be cleaned....)
So far with idle adjustment, warmed up engine and tightening some bolts seems to have been an improvement. Don't stall while idleing and turning at the corner I am hoping like before.
I still suspect that maybe valve/cam contacts, timing belt might be a big part of my engine not cleanly turning around without cycling on and 'off' vibrations ("missing") or surging in lower rpms. First I need to find that 'flame trap', what a hidden "treasure" that thing seems to be with all the other various 'sensors' and vacume and fuel lines all over the place. Volvo's have a lot of room ...but still some quirks it seems. (man, changing that fuel filter was awful compared to just some little plastic filter on my ol' toyota truck.
I mentioned keeping the oil at the highest on the dipstick gauge as I do notice improvement in 'clackity-clack' sounds from cam and valve areas....(another maintanince detail I've seen in the Hayne's book but my last mechanic didn't seem to think it was worthwhile pursueing ...(I suspect he didn't see the 'longivity' that I do in this car..)
I know I should clean the throttle body..... but maybe on the weekend?
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