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The switch panel does pry out of the door. Sometimes they're a bit stiff. Sometimes you have to remove the three screws in the door handle to release it a bit. The plate is snapped in with clips, front and rear.
The switch can then come out of the plate, when you compress the locking fingers on it, front and rear.
Once the switch is out, the body of the switch comes apart by prying with a tiny scrwedriver. You'll see the little latches along the sides. The upper body of the switch with the plastic rocker in it pries off the outside of the lower contact block. This is where you want the cloth or clean table to work. Not the dining room table- there's grease in there. The two balls line up with the tubular fingers of the switch rocker. The springs shouldn't come out, but if they do, just put them back in the plastic tubes.
The contact block is going to be all pitted and burnt. File the pitted contacts smooth. The pins are solid silver alloy so you can file until you get good solid material. Once smooth, clean out the chips, put a little grease back in there, set the see-saws in place over the contacts, put the balls in place with a little more grease to keep them there, and line up the plastic tubes as you snap the thing back together. The switch rocker will probably need to be held in the halfway position to line up. The upper body just snaps onto the contact block, and you're done. Action of the switch should be smooth afterward, and if it doesn't work- the problem is elsewhere. You may need to check motor resistance or circuit voltage with a meter to track down any further problems.
This is a pretty surefire way to fix your windows for free.
By the way, this process applies to all 740 and 940 series power window switches as well. They're the same switch with a slightly different rocker insert. (If this procedure isn't already in the FAQ, it should be.)
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K
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