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Changing motor mouonts. Prop up the engine on a floor jack, or lift it from above.
Given the scant amount of elbow room under the car ('89 740 turbo) I decided to lift it.
Didn't have any 2x6's around like the FAQ details for a lifting rig. Nor any long threaded rod.
I used a pressure treated 2x4 across the engine bay, resting on a couple of 12" long 4x4's Nothing fastened together. Used the 12" long risers on top of the firewall-to-strut tower brackets and onto the towers themselves.
Now, for the lifting part, I thought: "Gee, I already have a scizzors jack in the trunk. Wonder if that will work?"
Placed it on the 2x4, then found some aircraft cable left over from a cable repair on my garage door. Strong, thin stuff. Needed about 5-6 feet of it. Didn't even need to cut it off the long strands which came off the garage door.
Looped it through the front of the engine lift ring at the front of the engine, over the jack's "notch through the read lift ring over the jack again and through the front lift ring again.
This cable was flexible enough that I got away without using any cable clamps (which I didn't have at 9:00PM anyway). I just tied several knots and it holds.
Raising the jack did depress the 2x4 about two inches, so, in the future, I beleive I'd just buy a single 4x4" X 6' post for the cross beam and its support feet.
This is so simple. Wish I had a digital camera to let you see it. The garage door cable is the most exotic material you need. Suppose you could gat fancy by buying a couple of cable clamps and cable sleeves (prevents chafing of the cable by the lifting rings).
lifting is positive, smooth and quick. Easily fine-tuned.
You could even carry the set up in your trunk.
--
"Can't understand why people abort Volvos, either"
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