The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

Spare parts to keep on a 240. 200 1987

I've got a North American '87 245 (LH-Jetronic 2.2 fuel injection) and here's a rough idea of what I keep for spare parts and tools. Some of the stuff I have may not be relevant to your trip, but the tools, parts, and fluids are a good idea.

1. Two spare main relays.
2. Two spare fuel pressure regulators.
3. Assorted fuses.
4. One timing belt tensioner.
5. One or two spare timing belts.
6. Two quarts of 5w30 oil.
7. Two quarts of Dexron III transmission fluid.
8. Metric sockets 8mm through 19mm and a 3/8" drive.
9. Metric wrenches 6mm through 19mm (box wrenches with open-end).
10. Duct Tape and Electrical Tape.
11. Assorted bolts, nuts, hose clamps, and vacuum tubes.
12. Eye protection (safety goggles).
13. Tire Pressure Gauge.
14. Tire repair kit. (not a can of Fix-A-Flat)
15. A small toolbox to hold all the above mentioned items.
16. 12-volt tire inflator.
17. Two emergency ponchos. ($0.50 at grocery store)
18. Flashlight.
19. Three large glow sticks (6 hour).
20. Five Orion road flares (30 minutes).
21. Jumper cables.
22. +5,000 lbs rated tow rope (or chain if it's winter/snowing).
23. Maps of where I am, and where I'm going.
24. GPS (Garmin 12XL).
25. Radio: Amateur band, VHF. (FCC license: KC8KML)
26. Coming soon: Air Mass Meter and Main Fuel Pump.

Some of you may think this list is a bit nuts, but also consider that I'm prepared to do most minor repairs that could keep a car from being fit for the road. -and I'm an Eagle Scout, so I like being prepared to assist myself and others. The transmission fluid is good for both the tranny and the power steering. Oil is good to have, especially for helping other motorists (a quart for them and I still have a quart for myself). The parts I listed are junk-yard pulls and typically cost between $2 and $6 each, and that's also why I carry two of most of them (they're cheap and they might be of questionable reliability). The pre-planning of grabbing a spare part while walking through the junk yard can save you hours/days and lots of money when on a road trip.

As for the ECU and the ICU, I've heard great reports on the reliability of these units. I'm looking to acquire a spare of each for home testing and diagnostic work, but I wouldn't expect them to fail. I'd probably bring one of my spare Idle Air Control Valves before I'd bring an ICU or an ECU.

Regarding roadside tire repair. First off, pull off the road (onto a somewhat firm surface), swap on the spare tire, and drive to the nearest service station that can repair a puncture (or rest stop if you have the tools with you). I STRONGLY advise against using the cans of Fix-A-Flat for the following reasons:
1. Most people do not read the directions on the can. Consequently, they don't have the tools to remove the valve core on the tire before they spray in the repair material. If they do spray the contents into the tire without removing the valve, there's a chance it won't seal and thus prevent it from holding air.
2. Most people do not have a way to fill the tire with air after you've sprayed in the 'fix-it' goop. A separate can of compressed air is needed, or a tire inflator. Fix-A-Flat does not inflate the tire, it only sprays in a goopy sealer in hopes of plugging a small hole (small nail sized).
3. By using a can of Fix-A-Flat, you have just about sentenced the tire to its death. You now have the equivalent of sticky bubble gum on the inside of the tire and wheel. The balance will be WAY off with this large sticky/moving mass inside it. To restore the tire to good working condition, you must de-mount the tire from the wheel and then spend a lot of time cleaning out the goop that you sprayed into it. Depending on the cleaners available, the labor a tire shop will charge you to do this can be high and you may be better off buying a new tire if its been contaminated in this way.

...With all that said, I'd just use your spare tire until you get a chance to fix the punctured one.

God bless and happy driving.
Fitz Fitzgerald.

P.S. Please be careful when changing a tire or performing tire repairs on the side of the road. Pull off as far as you safely can while still keeping a firm surface for the jack to rest on. (and if you're jacking up a rear tire, be sure to block/chock a front tire for safety) By practicing at home, you can ensure a swift recovery on the road. If you find yourself on a fast moving road/highway with no suitable shoulder to change a tire, it would be safer to drive slowly to the next exit rather than risk you life.
--
'87 Blue 245, NA 223K






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.