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I agree with what everyone else has said - basically an easy job. I'd just add
1) Definitely replace the pads too. Take the old ones out first of all, as it gives more clearance for jiggling the rotor clear of the caliper.
2) Do hang the caliper on wire - don't let it hang on the brake pipes
3) Be careful when starting the caliper bolts back in the holes. They need to be aligned quite carefully or you can cross the threads. Fingers only to get them started.
4) Be wary of simply levering the pistons back into the caliper to get clearance for the new pads. The recommended procedure is to release the excess fluid via the bleed screws, NOT to force it back up the pipes to the master cylinder. This can damage the seals in the MC, and send old deposited crud from the caliper back up into the system.
5) Use a really good quality tool on the bolts, with a proper fit. They can be very tight and may need a hammer to start them turning. You don't want rounded off bolts here - as Don says, they are pretty inaccessible.
6) Make sure the new rotors really fit home on the hubs, with no run-out. New ones on old rusty hubs may need a bit of cleaning/grinding to get a snug fit.
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