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If it truly is the air mass meter, it could be that the cold air intake valve in the bottom of the air filter box is malfunctioning and is drawing hot air from the exhaust manifold too long. This could overheat the insides of the AMM and would fry it out. Some on the board just loose the foil tube and drive without it.
I had codes 113 and 115 and was spending weekends trying to trace their faults. And after about two months I started to get a third code for a faulty air mass meter. I resoldered the ground connections for the injectors per the FAQ, that did no good either. In the process of cleaning and testing for continuity in all of the connections under the hood and to the "brain", to no avail, after standing over the open hood of the car feeling at my wits end, I realized there was still one connection that I had not gotten to, the big one on the drivers side wheel hump. After cleaning the connections there all was well, all of the codes cleared and have remained clear for over two years now. I would start there and see what happens. Also clean all of the ground points under the hood and under the drivers side kick panel. Pull and clean the fuses too. This part of my annual maintence now. The fault tracing book I have from Volvo has a lot of steps to clean and adust the grip between male and female metal connections.
The ECU and air mass meters are expensive and should last the life of the car.
I would think you have a loose connection or corrosion somewhere that needs to be addressed.
DanR 94 964 237,000 miles
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DanR
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