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It's not uncommon to have serious troubles when bleeding 240 brakes. It's a complex system and quite sensitive to having the switch stick in one position or the other. From the pic in the other post you can see what turns on the light- imbalance in the 2 sides of the system.
One really important thing to check is, are the calipers on the right sides? The sounds obvious, but the bleed screws ought to point UP. If they're down, or one side is down, then they got swapped. They will INSTALL fine eitehr way, and you'll think it's right- but then the brakes are impossible to bleed as the air cannot fully escape the system.
Also, it's important to follow the complete bleeding instructions in the right order. It's not like a normal car because there are 6 bleed screws.
It is also possible that there's a master cylinder failure, and nothing is going to correct that save a new MC.
Vacuum bleeding is also a potential source of trouble- the cars tend to respond much better to pressure bleeding. If you can't find one right where you are, FCP Groton has the right pressure bleeder in stock, for $45 and you can do that yourself as a one-man job.
Unfortunately, also it could be in the switch/junction block, and with 8 brake lines going to that little ******* it gets real ugly. Or at least tedious and very messy. One other thing- if all the fluid ran out, and it probably did, it may be best to "bench bleed" the master cylinder to ensure that ALL air is out of it, before trying to bleed the calipers.
What I did was buy 2- 1-ft lengths of steel brake line from FCP Groton (about $2.50 each) and bend them so they point right back into the MC reservoir, fill the reservoir and pump until all air bubbles are gone from the fluid. Took 5 minutes to bend the lines and 5 minutes to bleed the MC on the car- this was whne installing a new MC last month on a 1988 240.
Good luck!!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: '87 244DL/M47- 221K, 88 744GLE- 202K, 91 244 181K, 88 244GL 145K
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