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Car runs finally, now FAST IDLE -- 1986 240 DL 200 1986

posted by  someone claiming to be car owner on  Fri Nov 21 06:33 CST 2003 [RELATED]

Hi,

Thanks to all the help so far I have gotten the car to start and run.

It seems to run better, but in the other direction now!

Car was real boggy and stalled out at intersections, rough idle.
The car needed a new engine harness, and for kicks I changed out the breather box, flame trap, and the two hoses above the flame trap. And put new spark plugs in. Then I had pretty much the same problem, but at least the car was into starting again. So I swapped the IAC with a pull and the ECU with a pull (from the same junker as the engine harness).

The IAC that I removed had a lot of black soot in it. I don't really get from the other posts how to clean them, as I cannot spin them on my own, I can only spin it part way by sticking in a screwdriver, then I cannot get it to spin back (no leverage)

Now the car starts, runs, but idles up on it's own to a really high idle. I don't have equipment or knowledge to determine rpms. But I am thinking that the next thing to do would be to take off and try and clean that thinggy with the black knob comming out of it. Something about the throttle being gunked up possibly.

Is that a right thing to do?? I did check and do hear the microswitch action when I manually turn the big round part with the cables on it. I noticed from searching the forum (thank goodness the search works again) that sometimes that part gets set by PriorOwners to compensate for 'other' problems and that I might have to reset it's value. Can I do this just by 'sound' alone, or should I just clean it out real good and take the car in someplace. I was thinking that I should have a compresion test done anyways, which I cannot do myself.

One more thing, when I go to inspect the spark plugs (new, only three drives on them) . The one closest to the firewall is wet & black even after sitting for a day. the middle two are dry and coated with black powder but you can still see the dot where the spark would have been being made. And the front one is dry and coated with black powder but you can NOT see the spot where the spark would go. This have anything to do with leaky seals or compression tests? Someone told me I might have a stuck valve, but would the car then run like total complete crap? It runs pretty much ok on the highway, just low acceleration power..

Thanks!





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