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Two things I did this time around saved a little time and made the install easier.
1. Don't bother removing the rear section of the drive shaft. Remove the three bolts connecting the front section to the OD's output yoke, leaving the three bolts in place that hold the rubber cush drive to the shaft. Remove the 4 bolts securing the center support bearing plate to the car and the front section of the shaft comes out with the rubber cush drive, carrier bearing and plate. The rear section of the shaft rests safely on a frame crossmember. Upon installation you won't have to bother with the rubber cush drive bolts and the plate they run through.
2. Don't open the clutch hydraulic system by removing the hose from the slave cylinder. Pull the snap ring free and slide the slave cylinder out while attached to the hose. The shaft will extend but the rubber boot will keep if from popping out. With a piece of wire or zip ties, secure the slave cylinder out of the way. I tied it to the left radius rod. When time came to reinstall I just slid it in place, secured it with it's snap ring and was done. No bleeding necessary.
Here's an installation tip. When mating the trans and engine, shift the trans into gear (3rd worked fine fwiw) and while shoving the trans home turn the output yoke which will cause the input shaft to turn, making it easier to engage the input shaft and clutch disc splines. Went on like butter.
Good luck,
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Erwin in Memphis, '88 745t 190,000 miles, '95 855t 92,000 miles
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