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Lawrence,
Was it any warmer out when the car started? I have the notion (no proof) that cold has an adverse effect on connections that are marginal. And given that, you may well have "fixed" something at the ECU connector.
I would also take both coil primary connectors off & on a few times too. It cost my daughter $84 (hourly min. on Martha's Vineyard) to have her negative coil terminal "cleaned" that way. So I preach that a lot.
Here is the "back-track" path for the Brown coil wire— Coil #15 => to bypass terminal on Starter Solenoid => back up to and thru the Harness Plug (8-pin) on firewall => then over to some kind of "pigtail connection" with a Blue wire near the Right Hood Hinge (this is where the Ballast Resistor would be on a K-jet car).
That Blue wire then goes inside to the Hot (unfused) side of Fuse 11, which has +12v when the Key is ON. The "fix" in the privately published manual I'm getting this from recommends running a parallel wire directly from that Fuse 11 source (unfused) to the Coil #15.
In the meantime, I'd carry a jumper that can connect Battery + (or that small black junction block on the fender rail) to the Coil — just in case.
Keep us posted as they say,
Bruce
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Bruce Young,
'93 940-NA (current)
'80 GLE V8 (Sold 5/03)
'83 Turbo 245
'76 244 (lasted only 255,000 miles)
73 142 (98K)
'71 144 (track modified--crusher bound)
New 144 from '67 to '78
Used '62 122 from '63 to '67
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